Tag: Foundational Black American reflections

  • “The Taste of Absence”

    “The Taste of Absence”

    I’ve never had the kind of kitchen childhood you read about in cookbooks or see in those nostalgic food documentaries. There was no grandmother with her sleeves rolled up, coaxing flavor from a pot as if she were bargaining with the ancestors. No father at the grill, the smell of charred meat mixing with family stories. No kitchen table where lessons were passed down between sips of coffee and the hum of a Sunday morning.

    Mostly, I was told to move.

    To get out of the way.

    To stop interrupting the real work.

    So the kitchen, for me, wasn’t an inheritance—it was a place I learned to enter only later, uninvited, and only by figuring it out for myself.

    What I know now, I built from trial and error: burnt onions, overcooked rice, chicken so dry it could survive a desert. I took classes under the buzzing fluorescent lights of community kitchens, where the instructors spoke in ratios and knife techniques, not the language of memory or home. I learned the steps, memorized the recipes, but there’s no ghost of a past meal in my hands. No lineage guiding my fingers. No taste of childhood in the sauce.

    I have a friend—let’s call her Maestra. She is Filipino, and in her kitchen, the air bends around her as if it has known her all her life. Watching her cook is like watching an orchestra conductor who also happens to be a storyteller, a diplomat, and the beating heart of a gathering.

    On her stove, several pots and pans move toward perfection in unison—adobo simmering slow, pancit tossed with just the proper tension, coconut milk thickening in a ginataan, a pot of sinigang steaming the windows. She weaves in and out between them, stirring, seasoning, and tasting without missing a beat in the conversation about Food, family, or some memories from the philipines. She doesn’t measure—she knows.

    When she plates her Food, it’s never just a dish—it’s a table alive with history. Her flavors speak of islands, migration, resistance, and celebration. The dishes arrive all at once like a chorus in perfect harmony.

    Me? I sweat over one plate at a time, reading the recipe as if it’s a bomb-disposal manual. Every step feels like another chance to fail. When I’m done, I have something edible, sometimes even good—but it’s a solo note, trembling in the air next to her symphony.

    I ask myself: Can you become great without the memories? Without the childhood smells and tastes baked into your bones?

    We’re told that the greats carry the kitchens of their past inside them—that every dish is just a retelling of something they’ve tasted a thousand times before. And maybe that’s true. Perhaps the secret ingredient is memory itself —a thing you can’t teach, can’t buy, and can’t fake.

    But I know this: technique can be learned. The hand can be trained to cut more finely, and the palate can be trained to notice balance. Timing can become muscle memory. Recipes can be mastered and perfected.

    What’s harder is closing the gap between cooking Food and cooking yourself into the Food.

    Maestra doesn’t think about her cooking—it’s an extension of her body, her mind, her history. I have to construct mine, brick by brick. She inhabits her kitchen; I visit mine like a tourist with a guidebook in hand.

    So the question isn’t whether I can be as good as her.

    Perhaps it’s whether I can make cooking something I belong to, rather than something I rent for the night.

    If I have to work twice as hard, does that mean I will always achieve less? Or does it mean my dishes, though born without heritage, might one day carry a different kind of truth—one built not from tradition, but from grit?

    Because there is a strange kind of beauty in building a craft from nothing. In learning to stand in a space you were once told wasn’t yours. In finding your own voice in a language you had to teach yourself.

    The greats will always have their inherited symphonies. I may never match them in that. But maybe—if I keep showing up to the stove, keep burning, failing, and trying again—I can compose my own kind of music.

    It won’t taste like hers.

    It won’t sound like hers.

    But it will be mine.

    And maybe, one day, someone will watch me cook and think it looks like music, too.

    By Kyle J. Hayes

    kylehayesblog.com

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